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We are in lower Latium, not far from Campania whose influence we already feel through the excellent buffalo mozzarella, and we look at the sea.
A beautiful beach that makes Terracina one of the most popular and relaxing seaside resorts on the Latium coast. And certainly the one with the greatest presence of historical and archaeological sites.
Historical and architectural beauties that are somewhat hidden, to discover them we climb a little towards the old town.
The urban conformation of Terracina, in fact, has two levels: a lower one, dating back to Roman times, and a higher one. This is where the necropolis was located and which has evidence dating back further in time.
The Temple of Jupiter dominates with its position and authority. At 210 metres above sea level, it dominates Terracina and the wider horizon. Dedicated to Jupiter protector of Anxur (Terracina’s ancient name), the Roman structure can be dated around the 1st century BC. In the epochal suggestion of ancient Rome we also find:
– the Aemilian Forum, today Piazza del Municipio, with the temple’s coeval slab pavement. Also to be admired are the still intact paving stones and pavement of the ancient Via Appia;
– the Capitolium, also in the square, consisting of the remains of the temple of the ancient Capitoline triad: Jupiter, Juno and Minerva (also, like the two previous monuments, from the 1st century B.C.)
– the Roman Theatre, continuing along the Appian Way, with a small part represented by the entrance brought to light by the reconstruction following the bombings of World War II. In ancient times it accommodated up to four thousand spectators.
And the small restaurants mentioned in the title? Interspersed with the period houses, they attract with their scents of the sea, popular flavours of tomato sauces and smells of the gardens. Simple fish recipes, pastas rich in seafood to be picked up with ‘scarpette’ of homemade local bread. The local meat is also worthy of mention. Buffaloes don’t just make mozzarella, do they?
Authoritative scientific studies would derive Terracina from the Etruscan word Trachna, linking it to the name of Tarquinia and the two related kings of Rome: Tarquinius Priscus and Tarquinius the Superbus. The famous historian Livy (59 B.C. – 17 A.D.) relates that the latter would have sent settlers to Segni and Circeii to guard the territories and coastline.
Another more suggestive hypothesis, however, speaks of the union of the words ‘earth’ and ‘supper’ (Terra-cena Ταρρακινή in ancient Greek). Yes, you got it right: it seems that a group of exiles who had fled from Sparta landed on the coast of the Tyrrhenian Sea where they founded a village at Feronia.
A place at the foot of Mount Leano where a temple dedicated to the deity of the same name was erected. Well, these exiles maintained their original customs and traditions, including the curious one of having their guests dine on the bare earth. But don’t worry, the typical little restaurants mentioned above now have wooden and straw chairs so you can put your legs under the table. Enjoy your visit to Terracina and bon appetit if you love the local cuisine.
